27. Day trip to Mt Etna

 

The day started early. Max stayed back not wanting to take any chances with her leg and it turned out to be a good decision as you will read below. I took the train from Syracuse to Catania and was picked up by Giuseppe, a young enthusiastic local guide in his Alfa Romeo.  We then went and picked up a Polish couple and up the mountain, we go.

Some background information: 

Mt Etna is classified as an active volcano with its last eruption in 2021 albeit a small one compared to the mountain's recorded history. The largest eruption was in the 17th century which destroyed the city of Catania 34km away. Its lava output was calculated as 600 million cubic metres. 

The weather was quite warm at sea level and I was wondering why we were asked to bring the warmest clothes we had with us. As we went up the mountain, I noticed snow on the side of the road and getting deeper as we climbed. 

Giuseppe explained he had snow tyres on the car and we could drive to quite a height up the mountain. We were stopped by police for a tyre check as anyone with standard tyres could not proceed past that point. I could see why too because as we proceeded, we were driving over a snow and ice-covered road. The car sat straight without any sliding and with that, my concern about the effectiveness of the snow tyres was put to rest.

It took about 40 minutes to get to where we needed to go and on the way, Giuseppe gave us a brief history of the area including the major eruptions over the last 500 years or so. We drove through villages that were under threat at times and I asked why people were still there. Giuseppe explained that the lava flows rarely threatened towns and the locals have lucrative businesses there being mainly farms growing a multitude of crops in rich volcanic soil. Pistachios, cherries, citrus, almonds and chestnuts were a few items on a long list.

When we reached our parking area, I realised how well the heater in the Alfa was working as it was freezing when we got out. I rugged up in my London clothes and was offered a pair of waterproof snow boots, gloves and a couple of trekking poles. I politely refused as I thought it was a bit over the top but on his insistence, I grabbed the lot. And glad I did!

Looking up, I thought Giuseppe took the wrong turn and had driven to Switzerland!

Giuseppe gave us the game plan for the day which included walking around three of the craters and then taking a break for a coffee before proceeding to a lava cave. He said to be careful and take one's time as there was a fresh dump of snow the night before.

As we started walking, it got steeper and, on many occasions, I and the other two participants turned around to see the view to the coast as an excuse to stop and catch our breath. The oxygen was a little thinner being at 2200 metres above sea level -that was my excuse anyway and I'm sticking with it!

Giuseppe gave us more info on the craters and how most eruptions came from the flanks of the mountain rather than one opening at the top hence the number of craters.

The view was breathtaking and surreal. Some of these craters were over 100m deep and were snow-covered and with relief, inactive. Giuseppe had us walking along the edges and in some cases, looking almost straight down on both sides of the wall with only a soft snow path about a metre wide to walk on. Full concentration was necessary as the snow cover hid lava rocks on the path and the last thing any of us needed was a twisted ankle up there. Those trekking poles were literally a lifesaver.

Giuseppe.

One of the craters.

And another...

And another...

Before we knew it, the weather started to cave in so we started heading back. A strong wind had sprung up and with it, the snow came. Here we were, walking along a one-metre path along a crater with a 100m drop, in an instant blizzard with horizontal snow...I literally laughed as I thought...people actually pay to do this! Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed every minute.

Once we got down the hill we had a well-deserved coffee in the La Capannina restaurant which was lucky to escape the lava flow in the last eruption. The second photo shows where the flow got to. Just look at the window.

After coffee, it was time to visit a lava cave. I was curious to see it but it wasn't as exciting as I thought. When I think of caves I think of glistening walls with stalactites and stalagmites but this was a tunnel created when the lava flowed down the hill and cooled. Inside it looked like a stone cavern which was impressive I suppose... I looked up and saw some severe cracks above me and below were huge boulders that seem to have fallen at some stage. Giuseppe explained that these fall on occasion... I was done... 'Oh look at the time!' I said. 

Giuseppe drove me to the station to get the train back to Syracuse.

I had to wait an hour so I had a late lunch which I had prepared before the trip. When I got to the platform, I was expecting the same type of train as the one that I rode in from Syracuse to Catania pictured below.

Instead, I got this and, the ticket was more expensive!

Welcome to Sicily...😊

Great day out! 

I want to come back in the summer months when the snow is all melted. Apparently, the mountain is covered in large sections of colours from flowers that thrive at that altitude.